But then, in 1609, the Shimazu clan of Kagoshima (southern Kyūshū) invaded. Trade with China, the rest of Japan and other Southeast Asian countries flourished, while the traditionally non-militarized kingdom maintained its independence by paying tribute to China. This period is seen as the golden era of Ryūkyū culture. In the fifteenth century, the islands that now make up Okinawa were united for the first time into the Ryūkyū kingdom, governed from Shuri Castle in present-day Naha. The rainy season lasts from early May to early June, while typhoons can be a problem in July and August, and occasionally into October. The best time to visit is in spring or autumn (roughly March to early May and late Sept to Dec). Temperatures at this time hover around 34☌ and the sun can be pretty intense, though the sea breezes help. Winter lasts from December to February, while the hot, humid summer starts in April and continues into September. Average annual temperatures are around 23☌, with a winter average of 17☌ and a minimum of 10☌. With its subtropical climate, Okinawa stays warm throughout the year. As long as you’re careful – especially during spring and autumn – you should have no problems if you are bitten, make for the nearest hospital, where they should have antiveni. It measures around 2m in length, is dark green with a yellow head, and usually lurks in dense vegetation or on roadsides, though rarely ventures into urban areas. A less welcome local resident is the highly venomous habu snake. But there are a number of endemic species on land, too, including turtles, a crested eagle and the noguchigera (Pryer’s woodpecker), in addition to Iriomote’s wild cat, the yamaneko. Much of this wealth of wildlife is underwater, spawned by the warm Kuroshio Current that sweeps up the east coast and allows coral reefs to flourish. If you’re lucky, you’ll stumble on a local festival, such as giant rope tug-of-war contests or dragon-boat races, while the biggest annual event is the Eisā festival (fifteenth day of the seventh lunar month), when everyone downs tools and dances to the incessant rhythms of drums, flutes and the three-stringed sanshin.īesides Hokkaidō, Okinawa contains Japan’s largest areas of unspoilt natural environment and its greatest biodiversity. There’s also a Ryūkyū dialect, with dozens of variations between the different islands, unique musical instruments, and a distinctive musical style that has reached an international audience through bands such as Nēnēs, Diamantes and Champloose. Ancient religious beliefs are kept alive by shamen (called yuta) and, in central Okinawa-Hontō, there are sumo bouts between bulls. The most obvious expressions of this culture are found in the islands’ cuisine and in a vibrant use of colour and bold tropical patterns, while the Chinese influence is clearly visible in the region’s architecture, traditional dress and the martial art of karate – the Ryūkyū warriors’ preferred mode of protection. It’s on these outer islands that you’ll also find the strongest evidence of the much-vaunted Ryūkyū culture, born of contact with Taiwan and China, as well as the rest of Japan. If you’re looking for an idyllic retreat, Taketomi-jima can’t be beaten, while the adventurous will want to explore Iriomote-jima, coated in thick groves of mangrove and steamy rainforest, and home to the elusive Iriomote lynx. Divers and beach connoisseurs will want to visit Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima, way down the Ryūkyū chain. Even quite close to Naha, you’ll find gorgeous beaches and fantastic dive spots around the Kerama islands, just 30km off Okinawa-Hontō. To see the best of the region, you’ll have to hop on a plane or ferry and explore the dozens of outer islands away from Okinawa-Hontō, many of them uninhabited. But the island has more to offer than battle sites, particularly in its northern region, where the old way of life still survives among the isolated villages. Okinawa-Hontō boasts a number of historical sights, many of them associated with the Battle of Okinawa at the end of the Pacific War. It’s also the most heavily populated and developed of the Ryūkyū chain, thanks largely to the controversial presence of American military bases. The largest island in the group, Okinawa-Hontō, usually referred to simply as Okinawa, is the region’s transport hub and home to its prefectural capital, Naha.
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